Types of woodworking machinery-Nail gun
A nail gun, nailgun or nailer is a type of tool used to drive nails into wood or some other kind of material. It is usually driven by electromagnetism, compressed air (pneumatic), highly flammable gases such as butane or propane, or, for powder-actuated tools, a small explosive charge. Nail guns have in many ways replaced hammers as tools of choice among builders.
Usage
Nail guns do not use individual fasteners. Instead, the fasteners are mounted in long strips (similar to a stick of staples) or collated in a paper or plastic carrier, depending on the design of the nailgun. Some full head nail guns, especially those used for pallet making and roofing, use long plastic or wire collated coils. Some strip nailers use a clipped head so the nails can be placed closer together, which facilitates less frequent reloading. Clip head nails are sometimes banned by state or local building codes. Full Round Head nails provide greater resistance to pull out as do ring shank nails. Nailers may also be of the 'coil' type where the fasteners come in either wire or plastic collation the advantage being a lot more fasteners per load, however, at the expense of extra weight. Industrial nailers designed for use against steel or concrete may have a self-loading action for the explosive caps, but most require nails to be loaded by hand. Nail guns vary in the length and gauge (thickness) of nails they can drive.
Air compressor supplies air into a nail gun
The smallest size of fasteners are normally 23 gauge (0.025 inches in diameter)commonly called "pin nailers" and generally have no head. They are used for attaching everything from beadings, mouldings and so forth to furniture all the way up to medium sized (7 to 8 inch) baseboard, crown molding and casing. Lengths are normally in the range ⅜ to 1¼ in. (10 to 32 mm) although some industrial tool manufacturers supply up to 2 in. (50 mm. The 23 gauge micro pin is rapidly gaining ground as users find that it leaves a much smaller hole than brad nails, thereby eliminating the time normally taken to fill holes while at the same time presenting a far better looking finished product.
The next size up is the 18 gauge (1.22 mm diameter) fixing, often referred to as a "brad nail". These fastenings are also used to fix mouldings but can be used in the same way as the smaller 22 to 24 gauge fastenings. Their greater strength leads to their use in trim carpentry on hardwoods where some hole filling is acceptable. Whilst most 18 gauge brads have heads, some manufacturers do offer headless fastenings. Lengths range from ⅝ in to 2 in. (16 mm to 50 mm)
Going up from 18 gauge fastenings the next sizes are 16 and 15 gauge (1.63 and 1.83 mm diameter). These are generally referred to a "finish nails". They come in lengths between ⅝ and 2½ in. (16 to 64 mm) and are used in the general fixing of much softwood and MDF trim work (such as baseboard/skirtings, architraves, etc.) where the holes will be filled and the work painted afterwards.
The largest sizes of conventional collated fastenings are the clipped head and full head nails which are used in framing, fencing and other forms of structural and exterior work. These nails generally have a shank diameter of 0.11 to 0.13 in. (2.9 to 3.1 mm) although some manufacturers offer smaller diameter nails as well. General lengths are in the range 2 in to 3 1⁄3 in (50 to 90 mm). Shank styles include plain, ring annular, twisted, etc. and a variety of materials and finishes are offered including plain steel, galvanized steel, sherardised steel, stainless steel, etc. depending on the pull-out resistance, corrosion resistance, etc. required for the given application. These sizes of fastenings are available in stick collated form (often 20° to 21° for full head, 28° to 34° for clipped head) or coil form (for use in pallet/roofing nailers) depending on the application. Full-head nails have greater pull-out resistance than clipped head nails and are mandated by code in many hurricane zones for structural framing.
Another type of fastening commonly found in construction is the strap fastening which is roughly analogous to the large head clout nail. These are used in conjunction with a strap shot nailer (or positive placement nailer UK) to fix metalwork such as joist hangers, corner plates, strengthening straps, etc. to timber structures. They differ from conventional nailers in that the point of the fastening is not sheathed so it can be exactly positioned before firing the nail gun.
Other specialist nailers are also available which can drive spikes up to 6¼ inches long, fix wood to steel, etc.
A variation on the nail gun is the palm nailer which is a lightweight handheld pneumatic nailer that straps to the hand. It is convenient for working in tight spaces where a conventional nailer will not fit and is flexible enough to drive either short nails into metal straps or six inch nails into timber. By repeated hammer action (of around 40 hits per second) the fastener is driven into the material by a more constant palm pressure (as opposed to a conventional nailgun which drives the nail against the inertia of the nailgun itself).
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Types of woodworking machinery-Miter saw
Types of woodworking machinery-Miter saw
A miter saw (also spelled mitre) is a saw used to make accurate crosscuts and miters in a workpiece.
Manual miter saw
The basic miter saw is the manual miter saw. It is a saw suspended on rollers in a metal guide that works with a miter box that allows making accurate crosscuts and miter cuts. They are still used occasionally, such as in picture framing or by manual woodworking enthusiasts, but have largely been displaced by power tools in woodworking.
A motorized miter saw
A power miter saw, also known as a chop saw or drop saw, is a power tool used to make a quick, accurate crosscut in a workpiece. Common uses include framing operations and the cutting of molding. Most miter saws are relatively small and portable, with common blade sizes ranging from eight to 12 inches.
The miter saw makes cuts by pulling a spinning circular saw blade down onto a workpiece in a short, controlled motion. The workpiece is typically held against a fence, which provides a precise cutting angle between the blade and the longest workpiece edge. In standard position, this angle is fixed at 90°.
A primary distinguishing feature of the miter saw is the miter index that allows the angle of the blade to be changed relative to the fence. While most miter saws enable precise one-degree incremental changes to the miter index, many also provide "stops" that allow the miter index to be quickly set to common angles (such as 15°, 30°, 45°, or 75°).
[edit] Types
There are several types of power miter saws:
Features
Miter saws are dedicated cross cut saws, long rip cuts are not possible.
A laser guide provides a precise visual indication of where the cut will be positioned on the workpiece in the current configuration. Some models provide a single reference line for one side of the kerf, while others provide two lines to reflect the total kerf width. A blade guard is a cover for the teeth of the cutting blade. Most modern miter saws have self-retracting blade guards, which automatically retract when the saw is lowered onto a workpiece and re-cover the blade when the saw is raised. It is very dangerous to use the saw if these guards are removed or damaged. A dust bag connects directly to the saw, and helps to collect sawdust away from the workpiece during cutting. Optionally, many manufacturers sell adapters to connect a shop-vac in lieu of a bag to capture more of the dust and simplify disposal. Dust removal with these saws is notoriously poor. A safety clamp helps to lock a workpiece into position prior to making a cut. This is an especially important feature when cutting smaller workpieces (eight inches or smaller). The miter table is typically less than 24" in diameter[2]. Typically, the work will need to be supported on the far end to stabilize the piece while cutting[3].
Miter saws are inherently low hazard as the workpiece is held stationary against a fence while the saw head moves, making kick back almost impossible and normally keeping hands clear of the blade. Also the saw head is usually drawn back, then lowered and fed forward through the material so that binding is unlikely.
Sliding compound miter saws are relatively portable, easy to set up, and robust enough to maintain accuracy even when moved around. Because they cut from above it is not necessary to adjust blade depth for different thicknesses of work piece and, like any bench machine, repeat cuts are very easy. Most saws have an adjustable scale plate for table swiveling with positive stops at commonly used angles. Also, there are usually adjustable stops at 90 and 45 degrees for head tilting allowing easy and very accurate adjustment of the saw.
Table swiveling in both directions is universal but most saws only allow head tilting in one direction (counter-clockwise) although some saws allow head tilting in both directions. Normally the work piece is held flat on the table and so table swiveling will produce a miter cut (blade vertical and angled across work piece), head rotation a bevel cut (blade angled from vertical and square across work piece), and in combination a compound cut.
One of the main disadvantages is relatively poor wood chip and dust extraction, since so much of the blade is exposed when cutting, especially bevel cuts, there is a tendency for chips to fly around.
A miter saw (also spelled mitre) is a saw used to make accurate crosscuts and miters in a workpiece.
Manual miter saw
The basic miter saw is the manual miter saw. It is a saw suspended on rollers in a metal guide that works with a miter box that allows making accurate crosscuts and miter cuts. They are still used occasionally, such as in picture framing or by manual woodworking enthusiasts, but have largely been displaced by power tools in woodworking.
A motorized miter saw
A power miter saw, also known as a chop saw or drop saw, is a power tool used to make a quick, accurate crosscut in a workpiece. Common uses include framing operations and the cutting of molding. Most miter saws are relatively small and portable, with common blade sizes ranging from eight to 12 inches.
The miter saw makes cuts by pulling a spinning circular saw blade down onto a workpiece in a short, controlled motion. The workpiece is typically held against a fence, which provides a precise cutting angle between the blade and the longest workpiece edge. In standard position, this angle is fixed at 90°.
A primary distinguishing feature of the miter saw is the miter index that allows the angle of the blade to be changed relative to the fence. While most miter saws enable precise one-degree incremental changes to the miter index, many also provide "stops" that allow the miter index to be quickly set to common angles (such as 15°, 30°, 45°, or 75°).
[edit] Types
There are several types of power miter saws:
- A standard miter saw has a fixed vertical pivot with rotating cutting table allowing horizontally angled cuts while the blade always remains vertical.
- A compound miter saw has a rotating vertical pivot allowing the cutter head & blade to be tilted sideways in addition to the horizontally rotating table. This allows vertical & horizontal angled cuts as well as cuts angled in both planes.
- A sliding compound miter saw is a compound miter saw with horizontal sliding arms for the cutter head allowing much wider cuts.
- A dual compound miter saw is like a sliding compound miter saw, but its blade and motor can tilt both left and right. This provides more flexibility for cutting complicated angles such as required for crown molding.
Features
Miter saws are dedicated cross cut saws, long rip cuts are not possible.
A laser guide provides a precise visual indication of where the cut will be positioned on the workpiece in the current configuration. Some models provide a single reference line for one side of the kerf, while others provide two lines to reflect the total kerf width. A blade guard is a cover for the teeth of the cutting blade. Most modern miter saws have self-retracting blade guards, which automatically retract when the saw is lowered onto a workpiece and re-cover the blade when the saw is raised. It is very dangerous to use the saw if these guards are removed or damaged. A dust bag connects directly to the saw, and helps to collect sawdust away from the workpiece during cutting. Optionally, many manufacturers sell adapters to connect a shop-vac in lieu of a bag to capture more of the dust and simplify disposal. Dust removal with these saws is notoriously poor. A safety clamp helps to lock a workpiece into position prior to making a cut. This is an especially important feature when cutting smaller workpieces (eight inches or smaller). The miter table is typically less than 24" in diameter[2]. Typically, the work will need to be supported on the far end to stabilize the piece while cutting[3].
Miter saws are inherently low hazard as the workpiece is held stationary against a fence while the saw head moves, making kick back almost impossible and normally keeping hands clear of the blade. Also the saw head is usually drawn back, then lowered and fed forward through the material so that binding is unlikely.
Sliding compound miter saws are relatively portable, easy to set up, and robust enough to maintain accuracy even when moved around. Because they cut from above it is not necessary to adjust blade depth for different thicknesses of work piece and, like any bench machine, repeat cuts are very easy. Most saws have an adjustable scale plate for table swiveling with positive stops at commonly used angles. Also, there are usually adjustable stops at 90 and 45 degrees for head tilting allowing easy and very accurate adjustment of the saw.
Table swiveling in both directions is universal but most saws only allow head tilting in one direction (counter-clockwise) although some saws allow head tilting in both directions. Normally the work piece is held flat on the table and so table swiveling will produce a miter cut (blade vertical and angled across work piece), head rotation a bevel cut (blade angled from vertical and square across work piece), and in combination a compound cut.
One of the main disadvantages is relatively poor wood chip and dust extraction, since so much of the blade is exposed when cutting, especially bevel cuts, there is a tendency for chips to fly around.
Types of woodworking machinery-Jigsaw (power tool)
Types of woodworking machinery-Jigsaw (power tool)
A jigsaw is a tool used for cutting arbitrary curves, such as stenciled designs or other custom shapes, into a piece of wood, metal, or other material. It can be used in a more artistic fashion than other saws, which typically cut in straight lines only. In this way, it is similar to the rasp and the chisel. Although a jigsaw can be used to cut arbitrary patterns, making a straight cut freehand is difficult even with a guide.
Traditional jigsaws are hand saws, consisting of a handle attached to a small, thin blade. The first jigsaw puzzles were made using this kind of unpowered saw. More modern jigsaws are power tools, made up of an electric motor and a reciprocating saw blade.
A jigsaw with a bevel function on the sole plate allows cutting angles of typically up to 45 degrees relative to the normal vertical stroke for cutting miter joints.
In the past, what are now usually called scroll saws were often referred to as jigsaws.
A Jigsaw may also be referred to, by some manufacturers, as a "bayonet saw".
A jigsaw is a tool used for cutting arbitrary curves, such as stenciled designs or other custom shapes, into a piece of wood, metal, or other material. It can be used in a more artistic fashion than other saws, which typically cut in straight lines only. In this way, it is similar to the rasp and the chisel. Although a jigsaw can be used to cut arbitrary patterns, making a straight cut freehand is difficult even with a guide.
Traditional jigsaws are hand saws, consisting of a handle attached to a small, thin blade. The first jigsaw puzzles were made using this kind of unpowered saw. More modern jigsaws are power tools, made up of an electric motor and a reciprocating saw blade.
A jigsaw with a bevel function on the sole plate allows cutting angles of typically up to 45 degrees relative to the normal vertical stroke for cutting miter joints.
In the past, what are now usually called scroll saws were often referred to as jigsaws.
A Jigsaw may also be referred to, by some manufacturers, as a "bayonet saw".
Types of woodworking machinery-Circular saw
Types of woodworking machinery-Circular saw
The circular saw is a metal disc or blade sometimes with saw teeth on the edge as well as the machine that causes the disk to spin. It is a tool for cutting wood or other materials and may be hand-held or table-mounted. It can also be used to make narrow slots (dados). Most of these saws are designed with a blade to cut wood but may also be equipped with a blade designed to cut masonry, plastic, or metal. There are also purpose-made circular saws specially designed for particular materials. While today circular saws are almost exclusively powered by electricity, larger ones, such as those in "saw mills", were traditionally powered by water turning a large wheel.
Types of circular saw
In addition to hand-held circular saws (see below), different saws that use circular saw blades include:
The circular saw is a metal disc or blade sometimes with saw teeth on the edge as well as the machine that causes the disk to spin. It is a tool for cutting wood or other materials and may be hand-held or table-mounted. It can also be used to make narrow slots (dados). Most of these saws are designed with a blade to cut wood but may also be equipped with a blade designed to cut masonry, plastic, or metal. There are also purpose-made circular saws specially designed for particular materials. While today circular saws are almost exclusively powered by electricity, larger ones, such as those in "saw mills", were traditionally powered by water turning a large wheel.
Types of circular saw
In addition to hand-held circular saws (see below), different saws that use circular saw blades include:
- Miter saws (or Chop saw or Cut-off saw)
- Radial arm saws
- Saw mills
- Table saws
- Panel saws
- Biscuit joiners
- Pendulum saw
- Brushcutter
- Cold saws
- Flip Over Saws (the Combination of a Compound Miter and Table saw)
Types of woodworking machinery-Chainsaw
Types of woodworking machinery-Chainsaw
A chainsaw (or chain saw) is a portable mechanical saw, powered by electricity, compressed air, hydraulic power, or most commonly a two-stroke engine. It is used in activities such as tree felling, limbing, bucking, pruning, by tree surgeons to fell trees and remove branches and foliage, to fell snags and assist in cutting firebreaks in wildland fire suppression, and to harvest firewood. Chainsaws with specially designed bar and chain combinations have been developed as tools for use in chainsaw art. Specialist chainsaws are used for cutting concrete.
Construction
A chainsaw consists of several parts.
A chainsaw (or chain saw) is a portable mechanical saw, powered by electricity, compressed air, hydraulic power, or most commonly a two-stroke engine. It is used in activities such as tree felling, limbing, bucking, pruning, by tree surgeons to fell trees and remove branches and foliage, to fell snags and assist in cutting firebreaks in wildland fire suppression, and to harvest firewood. Chainsaws with specially designed bar and chain combinations have been developed as tools for use in chainsaw art. Specialist chainsaws are used for cutting concrete.
Construction
A chainsaw consists of several parts.
- Engine — almost always a two-stroke gasoline (petrol) internal combustion engine, usually with a cylinder volume of 30-120 cm3 or electric motor.
- Drive mechanism — typically a centrifugal clutch and sprocket.
- Guide bar — an elongated bar with a round end of wear-resistant alloy steel typically 16 to 36 inches in length. An edge slot guides the cutting chain. Specialized loop-style bars, called brush bows, were also used at one time for bucking logs and clearing brush, although they are now rarely encountered due to increased hazards of operation.
- Cutting chain — Usually each segment in this chain (which is constructed from riveted metal sections similar to a bicycle chain, but without rollers) features small sharp blades called teeth. Each tooth takes the form of a folded tab of chromium plate steel with a sharp angular or curved corner and two cutting edges on the top plate and side plate. Left-handed and right-handed teeth are alternated in the chain. Chains come in varying pitch and gauge; the pitch of a chain is defined as half of the length spanned by any three consecutive rivets (e.g., 0.325 inch), while the gauge is the thickness of drive link where it fits into the guide bar (e.g., 0.05 inch). Conventional "full complement" chain has one tooth per drive link. Built into each tooth is a depth gauge or "raker" which rides ahead of the tooth and limits the depth of cut, typically to around 0.025". Depth gauges are critical to safe chain operation. If left too high they will cause very slow cutting, if filed too low they will make the saw dangerous and hard to control.
Types of woodworking machinery-Domino jointer
Types of woodworking machinery-Domino jointer
The Domino is a loose mortise and tenon joining tool .This tool, first on sale in 2006, cuts mortises in the manner of a biscuit joiner. Each plunge creates a mortise that is sized to accept a Domino loose tenon, creating joints in stock from 22.2 millimetres (0.87 in) wide. There are five cutter sizes (4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm) for five different Domino tenon sizes. Self-referencing pins allow the cutting of rows of evenly spaced mortises with no need to measure and mark. Mortise width is adjustable in three increments with the turn of a knob, and cuts can be overlapped for long mortises. Fence tilts from 0-90°, with stop positions at 0°, 22.5°, 45°, 67.5°, 90°.
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